“Vagablog” revival (plus Post Update)

September 1, 2023

If you read the update for my last blog post, then you know I’m very frustrated with the direction WordPress seems to be going. The day after posting the update, I started searching for alternative blogging platforms.

One of my former colleagues suggested “Google Sites.” I watched a few related YouTube videos and Google Sites seems like it might be a good platform for blogging. That being said, “Sites” will take some time to set up the way I want so I have decided to revive “Vagablog,” my old blog on “Google Blogger.”

Looks like not much has changed since the last time I used Blogger. In some ways that’s a good thing, especially in light of my extreme frustration with “new and improved” WordPress.

So, while I’m setting up Google Sites and doing some testing to see whether it’s a good fit for my needs, I plan to resume posting on Blogger again.

Related Resource:Vagablog” (name will change soon).

Post Update: The name “Vagablog” was changed to “Walter Sanford’s Blog” effective 02 September 2023. I published new blog posts on 05 and 26 September 2023:

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

walter sanford’s supplemental photoblog (plus Post Update)

August 23, 2023

I have maxed out the Media memory for “walter sanford’s photoblog” under my current plan with WordPress. The next tier offered by WordPress is prohibitively expensive, so it seems like I have no option other than to create a new “free” blog and extend what I created already in my current blog.

The new blog is just a placeholder for now. Watch for updates as the new blog develops, and remember to bookmark the site. walter sanford’s supplemental photoblog

Post Update

Congratulations, WordPress — you have successfully created the worst user interface for blogging in the history of blogging!

Here are just a few of many questions I have about the new and “improved” interface.

  1. Where is the administrator’s panel?
  2. Do I have the option to choose a free template?
  3. Is there an option to change from the counterintuitive Block Editor to the Classic Editor? (It’s worth noting the Classic Editor looks and behaves like a word processor — an interface people already know and understand how to use. In contrast, I have NO IDEA what commonly used application looks and feels like the Block Editor.)
  4. How do I add and manage media, such as photographs?

Can you tell I’m EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED with WordPress at the moment? I am! I have ideas for new blog posts but can’t figure out how to create them without reading a bunch of help files or watching “how to” videos. Kinda sucks the fun right out of blogging!

How did you lose your way WordPress? Simpler is almost always better than unnecessarily complicated, but you’ve chosen the latter. Why? Please come back. I want the old WordPress experience — it was FAR BETTER!

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

COVID (plus Post Update)

August 13, 2023

COVID. It’s still a thing. Yep, that’s the voice of experience talking. More later after I’m feeling better.

Post Update

COVID really flattened me for the first few days after its onset! I was feeling better by approximately Day 5. I’m slowly regaining my stamina, but I feel exhausted after relatively little exertion. Anyway, I promised “more later” and that’s the latest update.

Alice in Telecentricity Land (plus Post Update)

August 4, 2023

In a recent blog post, I wrote …

The best advantage of a truly telecentric lens is there should be little or no “focus breathing” as the camera moves closer to/farther from the subject. Essentially that means the apparent size of the subject should remain the same. That should enable better focus stacking because the outline of the subject is constant. Source Credit: Experimenting with a telecentric lens rig (plus Post Update).

Using my clone of Rik Littlefield’s 0.8x magnification telecentric lens rig, there was little or no “focus breathing” in the test focus bracket that I created from 63 JPGs, as shown in the following slideshow.

First, a brief explanation of what is shown in the slideshow. The first frame is Photo No. 1 of 63 from the focus bracket, edited to make it black and white. The last frame in the slideshow is Photo No. 63 of 63, shown in full color.

I loaded the two photos as a stack in Photoshop. Next I changed the opacity of the last image in the slideshow to 0%, meaning the first image, now black and white, is shown completely. Then I flattened the layers and saved the output. I repeated the process, changing the opacity of the last image to 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%. At an opacity of 100% the last image is shown completely and the first image cannot be seen.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Look closely at the slideshow and you might notice the subject shifts slightly to the right (from first to last slide), but nothing like the “focus breathing” that typically occurs when a non-telecentric lens is used to do focus bracketing. This means the photo composition that I saw in the first photograph is essentially the same in the last photo.

The following photo gallery features full-size versions of the same images used to create the slideshow, in order of increasing opacity.

Let’s pause to review. We know the subject should appear to be larger when the camera moves closer to the subject. But in this case, the subject appears to be the same size in both the first and last shots of the focus bracket. Why? Well, this is the point where I might be beyond the limit of my expertise but based upon my understanding of telecentricity I’d say it’s because most of the light rays that pass through the lens rig are parallel.

Things are getting curiouser and curiouser

If my [educated?] guess is true, then parallel lines in a subject should remain parallel from foreground to background.

Let’s start with a thought experiment. Think about a pair of parallel railroad tracks. Many, if not most people have noticed that railroad tracks appear to converge toward a vanishing point in the distance. The same thing happens when you photograph parallel lines. Or does it? Not when a truly telecentric lens is used to shoot the photograph! Let’s look at an example.

I didn’t have time to shoot and post process an entire focus bracket of a small plastic ruler, so I shot two quick and dirty photos near the end points of the ruler. The first photo shows the foreground; the last photo shows the background.

I could have used Photoshop to edit the images so that the vertical blue lines are aligned, but I didn’t because I decided it’s more important to show another example that illustrates lack of “focus breathing.” Plus I think it’s easy to see at a glance the lines are in fact parallel, not convergent.

Yeah, yeah — I could have and should have done a better job of posing the ruler but like I said, the photos are quick and dirty. Expediency trumps perfectionism.

Post Update

Consistent with the “quick and dirty” theme for this post, I used Apple Preview to edit the preceding photos of a small plastic ruler.

I started with the first photo. I drew a horizontal red line between two vertical blue lines on the ruler. Next, I selected and copied a small area from the bottom of the photo.

Finally, I pasted the selected/copied area from the first photo onto the second photo. As you can see the vertical blues lines are virtually the same distance apart at both ends of the ruler. Therefore my Rube Goldberg lens rig is almost perfectly telecentric.

Related Resources

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Telecentric lens rig revisited

August 1, 2023

The following composite images show the results of my first test using a new telecentric lens rig, cloned from a similar rig designed by Rik Littlefield.

Helicon Focus was used to focus stack 63 “as is” JPGs from my Fujifilm X-T3 mirrorless digital camera (focused on the head only). “As is” is a descriptor that I use often in my photoblog, but that doesn’t mean the images weren’t edited — rather it means the JPGs were edited in camera using one of the Fujifilm film simulations (PROVIA / STANDARD).

63 JPGs | Helicon Focus | Rendering Method B

In my limited experience using Helicon Focus, rendering Method C seems to work better than Method B. (For what it’s worth, rendering Method A never produces good results for me.) In this case, I can’t see a clear difference in the quality of the output. Do you think one version looks better than the other?

63 JPGs | Helicon Focus | Rendering Method C

Look closely at the full-size versions of the preceding composite images and I think you will agree with me that the image quality is excellent!

Tech Tips

In a recent blog post, I wrote …

Rik [Littlefield] developed another telecentric lens rig that results in lower magnification (0.8x versus 1.69x) but better image quality. I need to order some inexpensive parts before I can build and test that rig. Source Credit: Experimenting with a telecentric lens rig (plus Post Update).

The last part I needed was delivered a few days ago, and much to my amazement all of the parts fit together! (See parts list, below.)

I used my Apple iPad mini 6 to shoot the following quick-and-dirty photos of the new telecentric lens rig.

Here’s a parts list (shown from left-to-right in the preceding photos).

  • Fujifilm X-T3 (APS-C) mirrorless digital camera [not shown]
  • Fringer EF-FX Pro II
  • [1] Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens
  • [2] 67mm to 52mm step-down ring
  • [3] M52-M42 step-down ring
  • [4] Fotasy M42-M42 helicoid [15-26 mm long (11 mm travel).]
  • [5] M42 tube (7 mm long) [WeMacro 42mm tube set: 7, 14, 28 mm long.]
  • [6] 42mm to 52mm step-up ring
  • [7] 52mm-43mm step-down ring
  • [8] Raynox DCR-250 close-up filter (43mm thread)

Notice the focus ring on my Canon Macro lens is set for infinity [highlighted by a green rectangle]. The distance between the front of the Canon lens and front of the Raynox close-up filter is ~54 mm, based upon guidance from Rik Littlefield.

With the Canon Macro lens set for infinity, the parts in front of the Canon lens work together with the lens to make it telecentric. Adding the Fringer adapter has no effect on the telecentricity of the Canon lens — it’s only used to enable my Canon lens to work with the Fujifilm X-T3 camera.

Safe step size

I used Rik Littlefield’s excellent DOF Calculator plus personal guidance from Rik to determine the safe step size to use for focus bracketing with the new telecentric lens rig.

My input is highlighted by a red rectangle; the calculator output is highlighted in green.

Notice I input a 20% step overlap (0.2) to be sure there was no “focus banding.” The calculator suggested a step size of 0.17589 mm. That’s equivalent to 175.89 µm (micrometers).

Since the smallest increment on my NiSi NM-200 manual focus rail is 10 µm, I divided 175.89 by 10 in order to determine the number of increments to turn the larger adjustment knob on the NM-200. The answer is 17.589 increments. For simplicity and safety, I turned the knob 15 increments between shots.

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Post update: What is it?

July 28, 2023

The camera part featured in the last installment of “What is it?” is called the “Sync terminal” by Fujifilm, as shown in the following annotated image. The same part is also known as the “PC Sync terminal.”

Parts of the Camera | Fujifilm X-T3 Owner’s Manual

There seems to be some uncertainty regarding the origin of the name “PC Sync,” but it’s certainly true PC Sync is one of the older “standards” for external flash. Notice the word “standards” appears in quotes (there it is again!) because there are many different types of cables that are sold as “PC Sync” cables, so I’m confused — doesn’t “standard” mean all of the cables should look the same, or at least similar? You know, like the USB-C standard. But I digress.

Pluto

I bought the following PC Sync cable for use with my Fujifilm X Series mirrorless digital cameras and Canon EOS 5D Mark II DSLR. [My beloved Panasonic superzoom bridge cameras (DMC-FZ150 and DMC-FZ300) do not feature a PC Sync terminal.]

One end of the cable has a screw connector for a secure connection with the camera sync terminal. Buyer beware — the other end of the cable can be a potential pitfall.

This type of cable can have either a 3.5 mm male plug or a 2.5 mm sub-mini male plug. Be sure to buy the plug size that fits your external flash unit(s).

All of my “older” Godox TT685 series flashes feature a 3.5 mm female jack. My “newer” Godox TT685C II Flash for Canon Cameras features a 2.5 mm sub-mini female jack.

… the flash includes a 2.5mm sync port for basic wired connectivity. Source Credit: Godox TT685II Overview, B&H Photo.

I bought a small adapter that features a 2.5 mm sub-mini female jack on one end and a 3.5 mm male plug on the other end. The adapter enables me to connect my older Godox external flash units with the Pluto PC Sync cable.

Why use PC Sync?

In case you’re wondering why I’ve been experimenting with PC Sync for connecting cameras with external flash units, the answer is simple: focus bracketing.

I love me some wireless remote control of external flashes, but sometimes for reasons only the photography gods understand there can be a problem with “flash dropout.” That’s when one or more flashes don’t fire, and that can ruin a focus stack. If I’m shooting one-off photos and the flash doesn’t fire, hey, no problem — just take another shot. But if reliability is critical, then I think a hard-wired connection is the way to go.

What are the take-aways?

Oddly, neither one of my two older external flash units made by Fujifilm feature a PC Sync jack. My older Canon 580EX and 580EX II flashes feature what appears to be some sort of proprietary PC Sync jack for which I have been unable to find the necessary cable.

I have tested the Pluto PC Sync cable with my Canon EOS 5D Mark II and am pleased to report it works as expected.

My Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera can be used to simultaneously fire flashes connected via the PC Sync cable, a camera-mounted flash, and/or a wireless flash controller such as the Godox XProF II. The flash is Manual mode only. High-speed sync (HSS) works, but you need to enable HSS on the flash itself.

I assume the same functionality is true for my Canon EOS 5D Mark II although I haven’t tested it yet.

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

What is it?

July 25, 2023

Ladies and gentlemen, children of all ages. It’s time for another exciting episode of “What is it?”

If you think you know the camera part highlighted by a red circle in the preceding photo, then please leave a comment. The answer will be revealed in a post update.

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

iPad/tablet tripod mount

July 18, 2023

Did you know I suffer from “decision paralysis?” I do. It doesn’t matter whether a product is expensive or inexpensive, I agonize over the decision to pick the one that’s best for me. This time, I made the decision relatively quickly with little angst.

I knew I needed to get some sort of tripod mount for my iPad mini 6. For a while, I was using a small photography clamp to hold my iPad. It was precarious at best and an expensive accident waiting to happen.

A quick Google search turned up a YouTube video that caught my attention.

The build quality looked good and the price point seemed fair, so I ordered one.

After a month or two of usage, I can say this versatile tripod mount works as advertised. I think the parts that actually support the iPad are a little narrow for my comfort, but they do work — just be careful to center your tablet on the mount and be sure it’s clamped down tightly.

The tripod mount came bundled with several “extras.” Most of them are borderline useless, but one item turned out to be a pleasant surprise.

The small wireless remote control is great for starting/stopping time-lapse videos. You can use the built-in timer featured in the Apple “Camera” app to shoot still photos and start video recording, but you still have to touch the iPad to stop recording video. That can result in “camera shake” that you need to edit out of the video, but hey, I don’t need one more thing to do when the “little remote that could” can be used for clean stops.

Is this the “best iPad mount” as the YouTube video title says? I don’t know. But it’s “good” and sometimes all you need to know is when good is good enough. Please comment if you know of a better product than this one.

Related Resources

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Experimenting with a telecentric lens rig (plus Post Update)

July 11, 2023

I’ve been experimenting with a telecentric lens rig. My rig is cloned from a similar one created by Rik Littlefield, using gear I already own.

I’m guessing you’re thinking “What is a telecentric lens?” The honest answer is “I don’t know.” I’m not sure I’ll ever understand what telecentric lenses are and how they work. I’m hoping practical experience will result in better understanding of the theoretical.

So why have I written a blog post about a topic I don’t really understand? Good question! The simple answer is because I have learned enough, mostly from Rik Littlefield, to know there are practical advantages to using a telecentric lens for macro photography.

The best advantage of a truly telecentric lens is there should be little or no “focus breathing” as the camera moves closer to/farther from the subject. Essentially that means the apparent size of the subject should remain the same. That should enable better focus stacking because the outline of the subject is constant.

My Rube Goldberg telecentric lens rig

Rik Littlefield’s telecentric lens rig features the same gear as mine (described in the next paragraph) minus the Canon-to-Fujifilm lens adapter because he uses a Canon EOS Rebel T1i DSLR camera body with his rig.

My Rube Goldberg telecentric lens rig is cobbled together using a Raynox DCR-250 close-up filter attached to my Canon EF 100mm macro lens using the plastic clip-on adapter supplied by Raynox. The lens assembly is mounted on my Fujifilm X-T3 APS-C digital camera using a Fringer EF-FX Pro II adapter.

Rik developed another telecentric lens rig that results in lower magnification (0.8x versus 1.69x) but better image quality. I need to order some inexpensive parts before I can build and test that rig.

Testing 1, 2, 3.

The following closely-cropped composite image shows the result of my first test of the telecentric lens rig.

I shot 57 images of a toy plastic lizard using my NiSi NM-200 manual focus rail. I used an aperture of f/8 and a step-size of 100 microns, as recommended by Rik Littlefield.

Helcion Focus Method B was used to focus stack the “as is” JPGs from my camera. The resulting TIF file was cropped using Apple “Preview” — that’s about as quick and dirty as cropping gets!

Post Update

The first time I heard about telecentric lenses is when Allan Walls teased the topic during one of his YouTube live-streams. During a subsequent live-stream, Allan demonstrated how to make a lens telecentric using a rig similar to one that Rik Littlefield created.

Telecentric Lenses – Macro Talk Too – from Allan Walls Photography, June 29, 2023 (1:12:10)

Allan’s YouTube live-streams are one hour in duration, but there’s usually a lot of chit-chat during a typical live-stream that might not interest readers of my blog.

In this case, I recommend that you watch the segment from 11:22 to 30:21. A lot of what I have learned about telecentric lenses from Rik Littlefield and Allan Walls is covered during that part of the video. (If you continue watching the video beyond the 30:21 mark, then you will hear my name mentioned twice.)

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Outflow boundary

July 7, 2023

What goes up must come down.

A simple conceptual model of a thunderstorm includes an updraft and downdraft. Sometimes the downdraft causes an “outflow boundary.”

What is an outflow boundary?

Outflow Boundary

A storm-scale or mesoscale boundary separating thunderstorm-cooled air (outflow) from the surrounding air; similar in effect to a cold front, with passage marked by a wind shift and usually a drop in temperature. Outflow boundaries may persist for 24 hours or more after the thunderstorms that generated them dissipate, and may travel hundreds of miles from their area of origin.

New thunderstorms often develop along outflow boundaries, especially near the point of intersection with another boundary (cold front, dry line, another outflow boundary, etc.; see triple point).

Source Credit: Glossary, NOAA National Weather Service.

Recent outflow boundary near my location

Notice the intense thunderstorm located to the northwest of the blue reticle that marks my location. The large cell produced heavy rainfall, as indicated by the red radar echoes and green polygon that outlines an area where a flash flood warning was issued.

Click on the following image to see a full-screen view of the animated GIF.

05 JUL 2023 | KWLX | Outflow boundary

Now notice the ring of radar echoes that radiate outward from the dissipating thunderstorm cell. That’s an outflow boundary!

If you pour water on a flat surface, then the water will spread out in all directions. Like water, the atmosphere is a fluid (albeit much less dense than water) and behaves similarly.

Also notice another strong thunderstorm that formed along the outlfow boundary (to the southeast of the blue reticle) where the gust front might have interacted with some type of atmospheric boundary that caused uplift and fueled a new thunderstorm cell.

Related Resources

Copyright © 2023 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.