Archive for the ‘Apple iPad’ Category

Another B&H Photo packing/shipping fail

December 16, 2020

I ordered three items from B&H Photo on 11 December 2020: one item is backordered; two items were delivered on 15 December.

The first photo shows the parcel “as is” when it was delivered by Fedex. Notice two of four box top flaps were open — it was possible to lift the top enough to see the contents of the box!

The next photo shows the other sides of the box top were still sealed shut.

The last photo shows the open box, before I unpacked the items I ordered. Notice a single piece of bubble wrap is the only packing material inside the box: there is NO PACKING MATERIAL on either the top or bottom of the smaller boxes inside the larger corrugated cardboard box; and there is NO PACKING MATERIAL on two sides of the smaller boxes. That can’t be good for shipping fragile electronic equipment safely!

What are the take-aways?

As I wrote in a related blog post last May, the problem of inadequate packing material seems to be the new normal at B&H Photo. Now it appears you can add cardboard boxes that don’t stay closed and sealed to the list of epic fails by the B&H shipping department.

This doesn’t work for me — photo gear and related electronic equipment is too expensive to cut corners on packing and shipping. I said it in May and I’ll say it again — c’mon B&H, you can and should do better!

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.


What is it?

November 25, 2020

Ladies and gentlemen, children of all ages. It’s time for another exciting episode of “What is it?” Well, what is it?

Editor’s Note: I promise to upload a better photo of the mystery object later today.

Post Update

Here’s the better photo I promised a few days ago. Better late than never, right?

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Will it work? Is it safe?

November 6, 2020

As promised in a blog post on 12 October 2020, this is the first of several follow-up posts related to using the Anker PowerCore+ 26800 PD 45W battery as a power source for select Canon and Fujifilm digital cameras.

The power bank is one of two recommended by Fujifilm, so it’s reasonable to assume the battery is safe to use. That being said, I must admit I was hesitant to test the battery with a relatively expensive digital camera like my Fujifilm X-T3!

GyroVu” sells adapter cables that enable an external battery to be used as the power source for several makes and models of digital cameras. I recently ordered GyroVu adapter cables from B&H Photo for my Canon EOS 5D Mark II and Fujifilm X-T3. The following warning was included in the package for the Fujifilm adapter.

Specifications for proper operation.

Naturally I wondered whether the Anker battery meets the specifications to function properly with the GyroVu adapter cables. The specifications for the battery are printed on its textured case, in tiny letters that my tired old eyes are unable to see without using a magnifying glass!

Anker PowerCore+ 26800 PD 45W battery

Notice the specifications highlighted by the red rectangle superimposed on the full-size version of the preceding photo. [USB] Standard Output is 5V at 3A, within specs for the GyroVu adapter cables.

What are the take-aways?

Knowing the battery should work, and more importantly, should be safe to use, I was encouraged to test the battery as the power source for my Canon EOS 5D Mark II and Fujifilm X-T3 digital cameras. I’m pleased to report both cameras work as expected. More later in a series of follow-up blog posts.


The B&H Photo Web page for the GyroVu USB to FUJIFILM NP-W126 Dummy Battery Intelligent Cable (40″) says the cable is compatible with Fujifilm X-T1 digital cameras (see the section entitled “Overview”). THAT’S INCORRECT! The page also says the cable “allows the use a USB power source to power devices that use a FUJIFILM NP-W126 battery.” THAT’S ALSO INCORRECT!

Fujifilm X-T1 digital cameras use an NP-W126 (7.2 V) battery; Fujifilm X-T3s use an NP-W126S (8.4 V) battery. The names for the two batteries are similar but similar is not the same, as indicated by the difference in their voltages.

The GyroVu Web page for the USB TO FUJIFILM (NP-W126S) BATTERY 40″ ADAPTER CABLE says the cable “Connects any power source with USB female connector to Fujinon Cameras using NP-W126S battery” and specifies the output voltage as 8.4 V. That means the GyroVU cable will work with Fujifilm X-T3 digital cameras and will not work with Fujifilm X-T1s.

Bottom line: I tested the GyroVu adapter cable (SKU: GV-USB-126S) and Bescor NP-W126S Dummy Battery & AC Adapter Kit for Select FUJIFILM X-Series Cameras with my Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera and the camera DOES NOT POWER ON. Buyer beware!

Post Update: Further testing shows an NP-126S battery can be used to power-on my Fujifilm X-T1. I cannot explain why the Fujifilm brand battery works and the GyroVu and Bescor power sources don’t.

Related Resources

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Laowa LED Ring Light for 25mm Ultra Macro Lens

October 9, 2020

I prefer artificial light from electronic flash units rather than continuous light sources such as LEDs. That being said, when the working distance between lens and subject is small, a lens-mounted LED ring light makes sense to use.

Minimum focusing distance versus working distance

The “minimum focusing distance” is the distance from the subject to the focal plane. The “working distance” is the distance from the front of the lens to the subject. For macro photography, usually the latter is more important than the former.

According to Venus Optics (Laowa), the minimum focusing distance for the “Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x Ultra Macro lens” is 23.4 cm at 2.5x magnification and 17.3 cm at 5x. According to several Web sites, the working distance is 45 mm (4.5 cm) at 2.5x and 40 mm (4.0 cm) at 5x, or a range of working distances from ~1.8 to ~1.6 inches.

Adding one or more extension tubes reduces the working distance and increases magnification. For example, adding a Kenko 12mm extension tube reduced the working distance from 45 mm to ~30 mm at 2.5x.

And it’s worth noting that adding the Laowa “Canon EF lens to Fujifilm X mount camera adapter” to the lens further reduces the working distance — the adapter is ~26 mm wide, essentially equivalent to adding a 26mm extension tube. Combined with the 1.5x crop factor of Fujifilm X-Series cameras such as the X-T1 and X-T3, it’s no wonder the magnification of the lens is increased dramatically when used with select Fujifilm cameras!

Ultra Macro Lens

The first two photos, courtesy B&H Photo, show the version of the Laowa lens for Canon EF. For what it’s worth, f/4 is the “sweet spot” for this lens.

Product image courtesy B&H Photo.

Look closely at the front of the lens. Notice a “flange” (one of two) that is visible around the outer rim of the lens. Those flanges are used to mount the Laowa LED ring light on the lens.

Product image courtesy B&H Photo.

LED Ring Light

The next two photos, courtesy Allen’s Camera, show the Laowa LED ring light.

Product image courtesy Allen’s Camera.

The LED ring light ships with a USB power cable. A power source for the ring light is NOT INCLUDED. My next blog post will feature a discussion of the pros/cons of the power source solution I decided to use.

Product image courtesy Allen’s Camera.

LED mounted on lens

The last photo shows the Laowa LED Ring Light mounted on the Laowa Ultra Macro Lens that is mounted on my Canon 5D Mark II digital camera. The USB power cable is connected to the LED ring light but not connected to a power source. (Don’t mind the clutter in the background!)

Notice the face of the LED ring light extends ~5 mm beyond the front of the lens, thereby reducing the working distance by ~5 mm (~0.5 cm). Plan accordingly.

Laowa LED and 25mm Ultra Macro lens mounted on Canon 5D Mark II.

Related Resources

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

GodoxPhoto app

October 7, 2020

As the current odonate season is winding down, I’m gearing up for a long off-season of studio photography.

I just started experimenting with the free “GodoxPhoto” app that enables remote control of Godox external flash units via Bluetooth wireless technology. The app is available for both Apple iOS and Android devices.

The app works with any Bluetooth-capable Godox flash trigger, such as the Godox X2TC, Godox X2TF, and Godox X2TO/P. The number “2” in the product name indicates the second generation of these flash triggers: second generation flash triggers are equipped with Bluetooth; equivalent first generation flash triggers are not, e.g., Godox X1TF. Godox “Pro” series flash triggers, such as my Godox XProF TTL Wireless Flash Trigger for Fujifim Cameras, are not equipped with Bluetooth.

Godox gear is rebranded under several names, such as “Flashpoint.” The “Flashpoint R2 Pro Mark II 2.4GHz Transmitter” series of flash triggers is made for Adorama exclusively. These devices, such as the Flashpoint R2 Pro Mark II for Fujifilm, are equipped with Bluetooth. If you prefer the “Pro” style Godox flash triggers, then you will need one of the Flashpoint models in order to use the GodoxPhoto app.

Getting Started

Turn on Bluetooth on the flash trigger, e.g., my Godox X2TF. Press the “MENU” button to access the custom functions menu. Use the scroll wheel to highlight “BLUE.T.” Press the “SET” button. Use the scroll wheel to highlight “ON” and press the “SET” button. Press the “MENU” button again to exit the custom functions menu.

Go to “Settings” for your Apple iOS device and turn on Bluetooth. Next open the app.

GodoxPhoto app icon

On the “Home” screen, tap the “Bluetooth” button.

Home screen

All Godox flash triggers have a unique alphanumeric identifier, such as “GDBH-D7E1” for my Godox X2TF. I speculate “GDBH” stands for Godox B&H. I bought all of my Godox flash triggers from B&H Photo, so only the last four characters are unique to each device.

Enter the “Password” for your flash trigger.

Password screen

By default, the password for all Godox Bluetooth equipped flash triggers is “000000” (six zeroes). Experts suggest that you don’t change the password.

Default password: 000000


If you would like to use the app to remotely control external flash units, tap on the “Flash” icon on the “Home” screen. As you can see in the following screenshot, I tested three groups of flashes: Group A was set for “Auto” (TTL); Group B and C was set for Manual using different power ratios.

Flash screen


My iPad mini (with retina display) doesn’t feature a built-in camera flash. No problem! Tap on the “Camera” icon on the “Home” screen in order to open a camera app (embedded within the GodoxPhoto app) that enables me to shoot photos using my iPad mini while remotely controlling one or more external flash units.

Camera settings screen

For example, the following photo of my Godox X2TF flash trigger was taken using the GodoxPhoto app on my iPad mini and a Godox TT685F external flash unit. My iPad was paired with the Godox X2TF via Bluetooth, as indicated by the Bluetooth icon on the LED screen (shown below).

Godox X2TF flash trigger

What are the take-aways?

I think remote control of external flashes will be a good fit for a tethered shooting workflow.

Version 1.9.2 is the current version of the GodoxPhoto app. Although the app is “more mature” and far more capable than the last time I tested it, the GodoxPhoto app is more like a work in progress than a polished finished product.

Some functions are less than intuitive, so I’m sure you will need to access “Help” by tapping on the “Setting” button on the “Home” screen. See what I mean about being counterintuitive? “Setting(s)” is the last place I’d think to look for help! Perhaps there should be an “Info” button on the “Home” screen, where “About” and “Help” would be a better fit.

Setting screen

Related Resources

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Adequate packing material for safe shipping?

May 13, 2020

I ordered a Laowa 25mm Ultra Macro lens from B&H Photo on 10 March 2020. The parcel was delivered a few days later on 14 March.

The first photo shows contents of the larger cardboard box in which the lens was shipped.

The last photo shows the larger cardboard box after I removed the smaller box containing the lens.

Notice there was NO PACKING MATERIAL on four of six sides of the smaller box for the lens. That can’t be good for shipping a camera lens safely!

During limited testing of the new lens, I haven’t been completely satisfied with its performance. I can’t help but think, was the lens damaged slightly during shipping? I’ll never know but I’ll always wonder.

What are the take-aways?

I remember opening the box of my first order from B&H Photo many years ago. My first impression was something like, “Wow! The items in my order were packed carefully to ensure they arrived in great condition.” Those days are long gone.

The fact of the matter is the problem of inadequate packing material seems to be the new normal at B&H Photo, and that doesn’t work for me — photo gear is too expensive to cut corners on shipping! C’mon B&H, you can and should do better.

Copyright © 2020 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Five-flash studio macro photography rig

January 4, 2019

This blog post is a follow-on to a previous post entitled Studio macro photography rig. As you can see, my four-flash rig has been updated to include a fifth flash: a Godox TT685C Thinklite TTL Flash fitted with a Lastolite Ezybox Speed-Lite 2 flash modifier.

Although it isn’t shown clearly in the following quick-and-dirty photo taken with my iPad 3, both the Godox TT685C and a Canon 580EX II Speedlite are mounted on the crossbar of my Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100 Aluminum Alloy Tripod. Look closely — the tiny subject (a Stylogomphus albistylus exuvia) is positioned in the far-left corner of the white posing platform, in front of the Lastolite flash modifier.

The Lastolite flash modifier features a two-layer system of diffusers that provides beautiful soft light: the white square you can see on the outside of the collapsible box and another white square that you can’t see, located halfway between the flash head and the front of the box.

Another addition to the rig is my new 3 Legged Thing QR11-LC Universal L-Bracket. (Note: The camera body blocks your view of the L-bracket.) The L-bracket enabled me to mount the camera in portrait mode quickly and securely. Although the Manfrotto 405 Pro Digital Geared Head can be adjusted to position my camera rig in portrait mode, the heavy camera-lens-flash combo is unstable and can tip over easily.

New gear used for studio macro photography.

By the way, in case you looked at the preceding photo and wondered “What’s up with the crazy crop?” I used Photoshop to conceal some of the clutter in my kitchen. I set up my macro photo rig in the kitchen because it’s the largest uncarpeted area in my tiny apartment. Padded carpet is a poor surface for macro photography — the field of view from a tripod-mounted camera-lens-flash combo shifts noticeably (and unacceptably) as one moves around the rig.

More Tech Tips: A complete description of all of the equipment used in my studio macro photography rig is provided in a previous blog post entitled Studio macro photography rig.

Copyright © 2019 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Consistency and attention to detail

October 14, 2018

Fujifilm doesn’t make/sell any radio-controlled flash triggers and external flash units, so I was excited when I learned that Godox had released Fujifilm-compatible flash photography gear that fills the void. Better, the retail price-point for the Godox gear is quite attractive — about one-fifth the price of comparable Canon external flash equipment.

Buyer beware: You get what you pay for. In the case of the Godox flash gear for Fujifilm, it seems like you’re paying for a work-in-progress rather than a finished, market-ready product.

Fujifilm X-T1

The first two images show two screen captures from the flash-related “Shooting Menu” for the Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera.

Flash-related Shooting Menu for Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera.

Notice camera is set for TTL and high-speed sync is enabled (FP).

Flash-related Shooting Menu for Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera.

Godox TT685F

The following graphic is an outtake from the Instruction Manual for the Godox TT685F external flash unit. The annotated image shows the LCD panel on the front of the flash.

Godox TT685F Thinklite TTL Camera Flash | Instruction Manual

When the Godox TT685F is mounted on the hot shoe of a Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera, the LCD panel looks similar to the annotated image in the instruction manual. Notice the icon that indicates the flash will fire using high-speed sync.

Godox TT685F external flash LCD panel display.

The next graphic is an outtake from the Instruction Manual for the Godox TT685F external flash unit. The annotated image shows the LCD panel on the front of the flash when the flash is set for either Master or Slave mode.

Godox TT685F Thinklite TTL Camera Flash | Instruction Manual

Finally, here’s the LCD panel display for the TT685F in Slave mode. Conspicuously missing is any indication the flash is set for high-speed sync.

Godox TT685F external flash LCD panel display (Slave mode).

Godox XProF

The following image shows the LCD panel for the Godox XProF radio flash trigger. Notice the display is somewhat similar to the TT685F display when set for Master mode.

Godox XProF radio flash trigger LCD panel display.

The next image shows the LCD panel for the XProF radio flash trigger, showing only a single channel and group. Neither view provides any indication the flash will fire using high-speed sync.

Godox XProF radio flash trigger LCD panel display.

Inconsistency seems to be a problem with Godox

It appears there is some inconsistency across the product line of TT685 flashes made for different camera manufacturers (Canon, Nikon, Olympus/Panasonic, and Sony). For example, some models of the TT685, such as the TT685C for Canon cameras, feature both optical and radio master/slave modes; the TT685F for Fujifilm cameras is radio only.

There is also inconsistency and inattention to detail across the LCD panel displays for the XPro controllers for different camera manufacturers. For example, notice that “SYNC” is one of the four function buttons on the XProC (press the button and the flash goes into HSS mode); the “SYNC” button is missing from the XProF, as shown above.

Godox TT685C Thinklite TTL Camera Flash | Instruction Manual

Most, if not all of these issues should be easy to fix by updating the firmware; hopefully updates are in the pipeline already.

And speaking of firmware updates, the firmware for Godox flash photography products can be updated using Windows-compatible PCs only. Really, you’re kidding me, right? Seriously Godox, many if not most “creatives” — including photographers — prefer Apple computers. It’s time to make firmware updates available for either Apple Mac OS or Microsoft Windows!

Post Update: It works, except when it doesn’t.

Further experimentation showed that the XProF LCD display can show the icon that indicates the flash will fire using high-speed sync, as shown below. Here’s how I was able to make it work, albeit temporarily.

  1. Power-on the XProF.
  2. Power-on the X-T1.
  3. Press the “Menu/OK” button and navigate to the “Shooting Menu,” specifically the “Flash Function Setting.” (Both menus are shown at the beginning of this post.) Cycle through the three options in the sub-menu under “Sync” (1st Curtain, 2nd Curtain, FP); select FP. Press the “OK” button.

As far as I can tell, the Sync mode must be set every time you power-on the flash gear and camera, including after the X-T1 goes into power-saving sleep mode. If you don’t, then HSS works but the HSS icon isn’t displayed on the XProF LCD panel.

It’s noteworthy that the HSS icon is never displayed on the TT685F LCD panel when the flash is in Slave mode — more evidence of inattention to detail.

Godox XProF radio flash trigger LCD panel display.

Godox XProF radio flash trigger LCD panel display.

Copyright © 2018 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Studio macro photography rig

September 12, 2018

This blog post features a couple of quick-and-dirty photos that provide a behind-the-scenes look at some of the photography gear I use for studio macro photography.

The following equipment is shown in the first photo, taken using an iPad mini (with retina display): Canon EOS 5D Mark II digital camera, in manual mode; Kenko 20mm macro automatic extension tubeCanon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro lens (set for manual focus); Canon MT-26EX-RT Macro Twin Lite set for “Master” mode, and Canon 580 EX- and Canon 580EX II Speedlites set for “Slave” mode.

The Canon DSLR is mounted on a Neewer Pro 4-Way Macro Focusing Rail Slider using a Manfrotto quick-release plate. Although the quick-release plate isn’t essential gear, it makes set-up and tear-down easy and fast. The focusing rails are mounted on a Manfrotto 405 Pro Digital Geared Head, connected to a Manfrotto 055XPROB Pro Tripod [discontinued].

Photography gear used for studio macro photography.

A Canon 580EX II Speedlite is mounted on a Manfrotto 054 Magnesium Ball Head with Q2 Quick Release [discontinued], connected to a Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100 Aluminum Alloy Tripod. A Canon 580EX Speedlite is mounted on a Sunpak 8001 UT medium duty aluminum tripod.

The last photo, taken using a Panansonic Lumix DMC-FZ150 superzoom bridge camera, shows the “stage” used for posing subjects such as the Zebra Clubtail dragonfly (Stylurus scudderi) exuvia shown in the preceding photo. A Tether Tools “Rock Solid Master Articulating Arm & Clamp Kit” connects one end of the articulating arm to a leg of the Manfrotto tripod; a Manfrotto 2909 Super Clamp is connected to the other end of the articulating arm and used to hold a piece of opaque white plastic that is 12″ square. (Yep, that’s a folded paper towel used to prevent the clamp from scratching the plastic.) The plastic has a smooth side and a textured side; I prefer the textured side. An Opteka Triple Axis Spirit Level is used to level the “stage.”

Macro photography “stage.”

Product Reviews

See “Good news, bad news,” a related blog post in which I reviewed the Manfrotto 405 geared tripod head and Neewer focus rails.

Manfrotto makes an articulating arm that is similar to the one made by Tether Tools, shown above. The Manfrotto 244N Variable Friction Magic Arm is more expensive than the Tether Tools “Rock Solid Master Articulating Arm,” so I chose the less expensive arm. I’m reminded of the old saying “you get what you pay for.” In retrospect, I don’t recommend any of the articulating arms and clamps made by Tether Tools.

Copyright © 2018 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

More focus stacking with CamRanger

April 10, 2017

When I started experimenting with completely automated focus stacking using CamRanger, I couldn’t tell what, if anything, was happening. In fact, I wasn’t sure the process was working as advertised. So I devised a plan to photograph a simple subject (a six-inch ruler in this case) and use “focus peaking” to track what happened. By the way, it’s worth noting that my Canon EOS 5D Mark II DSLR camera doesn’t feature focus peaking, but the CamRanger app does!

During initial testing, I shot several small focus stacks. The following screen capture shows the display on my iPad mini (with retina display) running the CamRanger app; the focal plane of the lens is highlighted by red focus peaking.

Here’s a screen capture from another test, showing the final location of the focal plane (highlighted in red).

I made a movie that demonstrates what happens when CamRanger creates a focus stack. It was fun to watch the focal plane advance along the ruler as CamRanger captured the shots automatically!

The movie begins with a small focus stack using a “Large” step size (the largest increment of three options). When focus stacking is active, notice that most of the screen is covered by a translucent gray layer that prevents the user from changing settings accidentally. I cancelled the focus stack after two shots. Next I changed the step size to “Medium” and started a new stack. Notice that the focal plane of the lens begins where the last focus stack ended. The new step size is noticeably smaller.

Automated focus stacking using CamRanger (2:12)

As shown in the right side bar of the CamRanger app, I set the camera to shoot RAW plus small JPG. Both file types are recorded on the memory card in the camera; thumbnail versions of the JPG files are displayed at the top of the iPad screen. Although I usually shoot RAW only, JPG files can be transferred via WiFi faster than RAW files!

I set the CamRanger app to wait 10 seconds between shots, in order to allow adequate time for the camera to write the image files to the memory card, transfer the JPG thumbnail from the camera to the app, rack the lens to the next focal plane, and for the external flash units to power cycle.

My first finished automated focus stacks

I created a 30-layer focus stack using a medium increment. The following photo shows the JPG version of the first layer.

I used Adobe Photoshop CC 2017 to create a medium-increment focus stack using the small JPGs because they can be processed faster than RAW. The resulting composite image is shown below.

Finally, here’s the resulting composite image of a five-layer focus stack created from large increment/medium JPG photos. In my opinion, the output looks almost as good as the composite image created from five times as many layers.

Lessons Learned

  • Given a choice, run the CamRanger app on the most powerful tablet you own. I use my iPad mini rather than iPad 3 (with retina display). Although the iPad 3 screen is larger than the iPad mini, it features a slower processor. That being said, the iPad 3 is perfectly suitable for using the CamRanger app for other less processor-intensive tasks.
  • Some lenses, such as my Canon EF100mm macro lens, can be set for manual focus and the CamRanger app can still rack focus automatically. It may be necessary to set other lenses for automatic focus in order to work with focus stacking in CamRanger.
  • If possible, use continuous light sources rather than external flash units. I love me some flash triggers, but they’re not 100% reliable. If you’re shooting stills and the flash fails to fire, it’s no big deal — just shoot another shot. Not so when you miss a critical focus layer. I use a combination of two small LED light sources and a Canon Speedlite tethered to the camera by a Vello flash cable; the Canon flash optically triggers a small Nissin i40 external flash (in SD mode) used for backlight.
  • Turn off “sleep mode’ for my Canon 580EX II Speedlite. (C.Fn-01 set for Disabled.)
  • It’s challenging to determine how many layers to shoot for a given focus stack, especially when using smaller step sizes. Don’t sweat it! Simply shoot more layers by starting where the focal plane is at the end of the last focus stack. Repeat as necessary until you capture as many layers as needed.

What’s next?

Going forward, my plan is to experiment with automated focus stacking using subjects that are more complex than the ruler featured in this post. Preliminary testing suggests it could be challenging to create perfect composite images of objects that are more three-dimensional than the ruler.


I used QuickTime to create the embedded movie (shown above) by tethering my iPad mini to a MacBook Air laptop computer and following the excellent directions provided in How To Display your iPad or iPhone on your Mac (9:44), a tutorial video by Terry White, Adobe Evangelist.

Related Resources

Full disclosure: There are hardware/software solutions for wireless tethering and automated focus stacking that are less expensive than CamRanger. Remember, you get what you pay for!

Copyright © 2017 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

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