More FUJIFILM Tether Shooting Plug-in PRO (Mac)

Adobe Lightroom Classic doesn’t support tethering with my Fujifilm X-series digital cameras (X-T1 and X-T3), that is, unless you buy a plug-in from Adobe. The plug-in is available in two versions: Standard ($29.00); and Pro ($79.00). I recommend the Pro version. The plug-in runs on my 11″ MacBook Air (Intel processor, 2011); it DOES NOT run on my new 13″ MacBook Air (M1 processor, 2020) although both Adobe and Fujifilm report they are working to update both Lightroom Classic and the plug-ins to be compatible with the Big Sur macOS.

Documentation

FUJIFILM Tether Plug-in PRO – Features — page one of a set of nine Web pages — is the only documentation for the plug-in that I have been able to find. We might say it’s a work in progress although I can’t say that I know anyone actually is working on updating the guide.

FUJIFILM Tether Plug-in PRO – Users Guide 1 -Preparing for tethered shooting. Step “3. Launch Lightroom, go to [File] > [Plug-in Manager] and make sure that the FUJIFILM Tether Shooting Plug-in PRO is enabled.” I did; it is.

The Pro version of the plug-in features two modes: CAMERA mode; and PC mode.

In CAMERA mode, your camera operates as it does when it isn’t tethered to a computer; a view of your last shot is shown on the right side of the window. (See the following screen “Grab.”) The areas shaded in red are over-exposed. That’s good, since I want the background to be pure white.

In PC mode, the camera is controlled by the computer; press the LIVE VIEW button to see a Live View from your camera. The following screen “Grab” shows the plug-in in PC mode, LIVE VIEW.

Automated Focus Bracketing

FOCUS BRACKETING is a feature of the plug-in of particular interest for me. Eye droppers can be used to set two (2) end-points: End-point 1; and End-point 2.

Specify one end of focus-bracketing range as End-point 1 and the other end as End-point 2. Click on applicable positions on your image, using the eye dropper tool, to specify the end points. Source Credit: Using the Control Panel in the PC mode (operation from Mac or PC).

The function of the slider for each eye dropper is unclear to me. (Anyone? A little help, please.)

As far as I can tell, the user has no control over the number of shots in the bracket — it appears to be set by the software automatically based upon the user-selected end-points. For example, the following screen “Grab” shows the camera will take seven shots based upon the end-points I selected. My camera is set to display focus peaking (in red). It’s possible the focus peaking provides a visual display of the part of the photo that will be in focus based upon the end-points I selected. Then again, the focus peaking might just show what will be in focus for a single shot. I’m thinking it might be helpful to use dots on a screen overlay in order to display the user-selected end-points.

A feature conspicuously missing from the FOCUS BRACKETING settings panel is the option to set an interval between shots. This is especially important for flash photography because it’s necessary to pause between shots for the flash units to power-cycle. Some time between say 3-5 seconds is long enough for many (if not most) external flash units to recharge to full power. Lacking this option, a Godox PROPAC PB960 was used to power the two Godox TT685 flashes that lighted this test shoot. (See “Burst mode flash photography” for a demonstration of the power recycle rates possible with the PB960 external power pack.

Full disclosure: Before I began the FOCUS BRACKETING test shoot, I set my Fujifilm X-T3 to use a two-second timer. I have no idea whether the timer was working during the test shoot. I need to try again using a 10-second timer to be sure. Point being, if the timer works during automated focus bracketing using the plug-in then it could compensate for the lack of an interval setting in the FOCUS BRACKETING settings panel. POST UPDATE: A 10-second timer was set BEFORE a tethered session was started. I’m pleased to report my interval work-around works!

Not to belabor my point (too late?), it’s interesting to note that in-camera focus bracketing allows the user to set a step size, the number of shots, and an interval between shots. For more information about in-camera focus bracketing, see the link from the Related Resources to a video by pal2tech. In-camera focus bracketing has two big disadvantages: 1) the user can set only one end-point (the beginning point); and 2) setting both the step size and the right number of shots in the bracket is a guessing game at best.

What are the take-aways?

I shot two sets of focus bracketing test shots: a set of three (3) photos at f/16; and a set of seven (7) shots at f/8. I used a purple plastic 12″ ruler as the subject, thinking it should be easy to see where each photo is in focus. Problem is, I posed the ruler poorly and it’s not easy to see the focus/out-of-focus areas from one photo to the next. I need to try the test again with the ruler aligned along the lens barrel. POST UPDATE: I changed the orientation of the ruler and shot another set of focus bracketing test photos. The 11-photo set clearly shows the focus point moved along the length of the ruler. Details in my next blog post.

Is automated focus bracketing using the plug-in better than in-camera focus bracketing? I don’t know, but I think it’s worth further exploration.

Related Resources

Plug-in related videos…

• FUJIFILM X-T2 Tethering to Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, by FUJIFILMglobal (2:38)
• Fuji XT-2 Tethering to Lightroom, by Fabian Pourmand (4:58)

Automated in-camera focus bracketing…

• Focus Bracketing on Fuji X-T4, X-T3, and X-T2, by pal2tech (24:50) [~12:02/24:50 = setting “INTERVAL”]
• Advanced Technique: Focus Bracketing with FUJIFILM Cameras
• MYN – Hits and misses – a blog post related to my first attempt at automated in-camera focus bracketing

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Work-around for tethering Fujifilm cameras and Adobe Lightroom Classic

There is a work-around that allows limited tethering between Fujifilm cameras and Adobe Lightroom Classic.

The work flow involves using the Fujifilm X Acquire stand-alone application as described in my last blog post. Essentially the process is as follows: Your Fujifilm camera is tethered to a computer via a USB cable; photo files are saved to both a user-selected target folder on the computer and a memory card in your camera. The photo files saved to your computer can be opened using an application such as either Apple “Preview” or Adobe Lightroom.

Adobe Lightroom can be set to “watch” a selected folder and display photo files as they are added to that folder. A video by Nathan Woodgate shows how it works (better than I could describe). The first part of the video is related to how to use Fujifilm X Acquire; the last part of the video (beginning ~4:15 into the video) explains the Adobe Lightroom work-around.

A summary of the steps to follow in order to set-up the work-around is as follows…

1. open Lightroom

2. select File / Auto Import >

3. select Auto Import Settings…

– <check> Enable Auto Import

– choose “Watched Folder” [folder must be empty initially]

– choose “Destination Folder” <— Note: The Destination Folder can be located on an external disk drive, such as my SanDisk SSD (where I store photo files permanently).

– click <OK>

As each new photo is added to the “Watched Folder,” it is opened automatically in Lightroom and moved (not copied) to the “Destination Folder.” The net effect is the Watched Folder is an empty shell through which files pass along the way to the Destination Folder.

Another video by Lee Zavitz covers mostly the same information. If you’re going to watch only one of the two videos, then I recommend the Woodgate video. I added the Zavitz video because I think it can be helpful to see/hear more than one photographer explain how something works.

What are the take-aways?

During limited testing, I can verify the work-around process works.

For me, the advantage of viewing the photo files in Lightroom rather than Preview is Lightroom enables me to examine a histogram to be sure that the background is pure white (255, 255, 255) when using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. For that purpose, I would set X Acquire to save only RAW (RAF) files to the computer.

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Return to tethered shooting

Now that my new “digital darkroom” is set-up and running, it’s time to resume my experimentation with tethered shooting.

Adobe Lightroom Classic can be used to tether many models of Canon and Nikon digital cameras with computers (running either macOS or Windows) that meet the system requirements. For example, my Canon EOS 5D Mark II appears on the list of tethered cameras supported by Lightroom Classic.

The Canon EOS 5D Mark II works as expected when tethered with Lightroom Classic. “Live View” on the computer screen plus the ability to change camera settings and trigger the camera using Lightroom are among many features I like. And it’s FREE. Free is good!

In contrast, Lightroom Classic doesn’t support tethering with my Fujifilm X-series digital cameras (X-T1 and X-T3), that is, unless you buy a plug-in from Adobe. The plug-in is available in two versions: Standard ($29.00); and Pro ($79.00). I recommend the Pro version. The plug-in runs on my 11″ MacBook Air (Intel processor, 2011); it DOES NOT run on my new 13″ MacBook Air (M1 processor, 2020) although both Adobe and Fujifilm report they are working to update both Lightroom Classic and the plug-ins to be compatible with the Big Sur macOS.

Full disclosure: There is a work-around that allows limited tethering between Fujifilm cameras and Lightroom Classic. More about that in a follow-up blog post.

In the meantime, this post will focus upon Fujifilm X Acquire, a free stand-alone application that enables tethering between many models of Fujifilm cameras with macOS and Windows computers. The app is limited in what it can do, but it is useful.

Why tethered shooting?

Tethered shooting enables me to quickly check composition, exposure, and focus, to name a few advantages of tethered versus non-tethered shooting — on a larger screen than the LCD on the back of my digital cameras. For example, the LCD screen on the back of my Fujifilm X-T3 camera is ~2 7/8″ diagonally (rounded to 3″); the screen display on my new MacBook Air (M1, 2020) is 13″ diagonally — a little more than four times larger than the camera LCD. That might not seem like a lot, but it makes a big difference to my tired old eyes!

My Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera is tethered to the new MacBook Air computer via a TetherTools USB cable although that IS NOT AN ENDORSEMENT for TetherTools products — in my opinion their products are way overpriced, some do not work as advertised, and their product support/customer service was a very frustrating experience for me!

Fujifilm X Aquire can be used to save JPG and/or RAW (RAF) photo files to a select folder on the computer, in my case, a folder on the desktop of the MacBook Air: I save JPG files to the computer; both JPG and RAW (RAF) files are saved to one of two memory cards in the Fujifilm X-T3. Apple “Preview” is used to view the JPG files saved to my MacBook Air.

The FUJIFILM X Acquire – Features & Users Guide provides helpful information regarding how to make the necessary camera and software settings. It’s worth noting that as long as you select USB AUTO [full name “USB TETHER SHOOTING AUTO”] as the CAMERA SETTING/PC CONNECTION MODE, it’s set it and forget it — there’s nothing to reset after a tethered shooting session — your camera will work as always in stand-alone mode.

Fujifilm X Acquire (Version 1.18.0.8)

Version 1.18.0.8 is an updated version that is compatible with the Big Sur macOS. Looks like the update was rushed to market, as evidenced by the first window that appears after the app is launched.

I don’t like clicking the “OK” button without knowing what those cryptic characters mean — you could be agreeing to all kinds of mischief!

The next window might provide some insight into why one of X Acquire’s features doesn’t work. (See below.) I’m thinking X Acquire should prompt the user to grant the necessary permissions at start-up.

It’s necessary to set some preferences for X Acquire before beginning a tethered session. Screenshots of the three tabs in the Preferences window are shown below since it has changed a little in the latest version of the app.

I recommend tethering via a USB cable rather than a Wi-Fi network — it’s faster and a lot less complicated!

As I mentioned earlier in this blog post, I save JPG files to the computer and both JPG and RAW (RAF) files to the camera.

The button labeled “Linked Software” is problematic. I linked the JPG files to Apple “Preview.” When a JPG photo file is saved to the user-selected target folder, it should open in “Preview” automatically.

“Should” is the operative word because the following error warning appears on-screen every time a photo is saved to the target folder.

In order to fix the problem, I did exactly what the warning says. The problem persists. Advice from my knowledgeable readers is invited and welcome. Please leave a comment if you can tell me how to fix the permission problems in the X Acquire app.

So it’s a Mac problem not Fuji acquire problem as it works nearly perfectly on Windows 10. Source Credit: Comment by David Hoult on my related post in the “Fuji X Gear & Talk” Facebook group.

In the absence of a fix for the “Linked Software” problem, I simply double-click on each new JPG photo file and it opens in “Preview.”

Fujifilm X Acquire (Version 1.16.0.9)

Version 1.16.0.9 is the version of X Acquire running on my 11″ MacBook Air (Intel processor, 2011). As you can see, the splash screen looks quite different from the one that requires literacy in either Chinese or Japanese.

A small window can be shown that displays your camera model and settings, including (from left to right) shutter speed, f/stop, ISO, exposure compensation, and white balance. The window is a feature of both versions of X Acquire.

The window cannot be used to change camera settings. Notice the window doesn’t feature a button that can be used to trigger the camera. I think it would be nice to add a trigger button to both versions.

The “Linked Software” problem is one that predates the Big Sur version of X Acquire. C’mon Fujifilm, it’s time to quash this annoying bug, otherwise a nice feature of the app is useless!

Related Resources

• Fuji X Tethering with Fujifilm X Acquire, by Damian Brown (4:06)
• Fuji Guys – FUJIFILM X-Acquire Update V.1.7 – Walkthrough, by Fuji Guys Channel (4:06)
• Tethering with Fujifilm X-T2 and the X Acquire software, by Eivind Røhne (16:47)

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Fresh Air

Fresh Air. In the house. Aw yeah, I love that new computer smell!

21 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | new digital darkroom

The preceding quick-and-dirty photo was taken using an iPad mini 2 — it’s grainy due to low light in the room where my new computer is set up. Hey, sometimes expediency trumps quality.

Gear List

• Apple MacBook Air (M1, 2020) – 13-inch, 16GB memory, 1TB SSD (Space Gray)
• Logitech B100 Corded Mouse – Wired USB Mouse for Computers and laptops, for Right or Left Hand Use (Black)
• Apple USB-C to USB Adapter (White)
• CalDigit TS3 Plus 15-Port Thunderbolt 3 Dock (Space Gray)
• SanDisk 1TB Extreme PRO Portable SSD V2 (Black)

Related Resources

• 2020 MacBook Air – Unboxing, Setup, and First Look, by zollotech (11:28)
• CalDigit Support: TS3 Plus Setup Guide, by CalDigit (1:17)
• Sandisk Extreme How To Install / Set Up External Hard Drive on Mac | Manual | Setup Guide, by Tech & Design (13:42)

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Toy dinosaur: Brachiosaurus

The following toy dinosaur was photographed against a pure white background (255, 255, 255) using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. Raised letters on the belly of the toy say it’s a Brachiosaurus. The toy is ~4.8 cm tall.

17 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | toy Brachiosaurus

The Backstory

Regular readers of my photoblog know odonate exuviae is one of my favorite subjects for macro photography. Each specimen must be photographed from several viewpoints including dorsal, ventral, and lateral views that illustrate field marks used for identification.

This makes it impractical to “pin” each specimen the way many photographers do (see Related Resources, below), thereby eliminating “table-top” macro photography rigs where the camera, subject, external flashes, and white background are arranged in a line along a horizontal plane such as a sturdy desk or table.

My solution, albeit ever-evolving, is to go vertical. Small clear plastic trays are used to stage subjects between the camera rig and the white background. One of the bigger challenges of a set-up like this is to devise a way to increase the distance between the white background and the tray where the subject is staged so that fine details like legs and eyes aren’t “blown out” by the strong background light.

Long story short (too late?), I have been experimenting with a new vertical rig that enables the stage and background to be separated by 15″ to 20″ without the need to stand on a step ladder in order to see the camera. I plan to post “behind the scenes” photos of the new rig after I switch subjects from small toys to odonate exuviae, that is, assuming the set-up works as well as I hope.

Tech Tips

The photo featured in this blog post was taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, Fujinon XF80mm macro lens, and an array of external lights.

The toy dinosaur is nearly as large as the small plastic tray used to stage the subject, resulting in a photograph that was poorly composed. Adobe Photoshop CC 2017 was used to expand the photo frame and reposition the subject — a relatively easy task given the “clean” pure white background.

Related Resources

Two excellent videos by Allan Walls Photography…

• Focus stacking in macro photography – preparing insects (36:28)
• Mounting and Cleaning Tiny Insects – for high magnification macro photography (40:03)

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Dino the Dinosaur, revisited

There’s only one cartoon character named “Dino the Dinosaur” but there are two Dinos in my collection of toy dinosaurs! This one is Dino the hipster roller-blader.

15 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | toy “Dino the Dinosaur”

Tech Tips

The preceding photograph was taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, and Fujinon XF80mm macro lens. The toy is ~6.0+ cm tall.

I prefer using single point focus in most situations. In this case, the focus point was centered over the face of the subject. Most of the subject is acceptably in focus at an aperture of f/16.

One external flash unit was used to create the white background and another to light the subject. The exposure was increased by 0.1 stop during post-processing in order to attain a pure white background. A Sunpak LED-160 — a continuous light source — was used to assist in focusing on the subject in low light.

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Dino the Dinosaur

Of course no photo gallery of toy dinosaurs would be complete without a guest appearance by the one, the only “Dino the Dinosaur!”

13 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | toy “Dino the Dinosaur”

Tech Tips

The preceding photograph was taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, and Fujinon XF80mm macro lens. The toy is ~5.3+ cm wide.

I prefer using single point focus in most situations. In this case, the focus point was centered over the face of the subject. Most of the subject is acceptably in focus at an aperture of f/16.

One external flash unit was used to create the white background and another to light the subject. The exposure was increased by 0.2 stop during post-processing in order to attain a pure white background.

What’s up with all the pictures of toys?

I’ve been experimenting with yet another reconfiguration of my macro photo “studio,” with the goal of improving the lighting for photographing subjects against a pure white background (255, 255, 255) using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. I might have had an epiphany today. More later after further experimentation.

Related Resources

• The Flintstones – Dino the Dino (song) [YouTube (2:58)]
•  Dino the Dinosaur’s Christmas Tree [song on YouTube (1:29)]

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Toy dinosaur

A toy dinosaur — probably a Tyrannosaus rex — was photographed against a pure white background (255, 255, 255) using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. The toy is ~4.7 cm long from the tip of its nose to the end of its tail.

11 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | toy dinosaur

Tech Tips

The full frame photograph (that is, uncropped) shown above was taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, and Fujinon XF80mm macro lens.

I prefer using single point focus in most situations. In this case, the focus point was centered over the right eye of the subject. Most of the subject is acceptably in focus at an aperture of f/16.

One external flash unit was used to create the white background and another to light the subject. The exposure was increased by 0.3 stop during post-processing in order to attain a pure white background.

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

Toy dinosaur: focus-stacked composite image

The following toy dinosaur was photographed against a pure white background (255, 255, 255) using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. The toy is 2.96 cm long.

11 photographs were taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, and Fujinon XF80mm macro lens. A single focus point was moved to 11 places on the toy.

The photos were edited using Apple Aperture, exported as TIFF files, then loaded into Adobe Photoshop CC 2017 in order to create the focus stack.

07 JAN 2021 | BoG Photo Studio | toy dinosaur

It’s been a while since I created a focus-stacked composite image. All I can say is it’s a good thing I keep good notes related to the experimentation that I do in my “photo studio,” because I had forgotten many of the steps in the workflow!

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.

What is it? It’s a toy Monoclonius.

Congratulations to Sherry Felix, a regular reader of my blog who seems to have correctly identified my toy dinosaur: It’s a Monoclonius. Good work, Sherry!

20 DEC 2020 | BoG Photo Studio | toy Monoclonius

Tech Tips

The toy Monoclonius was photographed against a pure white background (255, 255, 255) using the “Meet Your Neighbours” (MYN) technique. The toy is 2.42 cm long.

The full frame photograph (that is, uncropped) shown above was taken using a Fujifilm X-T3 digital camera, Fujifilm MCEX-11 extension tube, and Fujinon XF80mm macro lens.

I prefer using single point focus in most situations. In this case, the focus point was centered over the right eye of the subject. Notice the entire subject isn’t in tack sharp focus despite using an aperture of f/16, but hey, at least the eye is in focus!

Copyright © 2021 Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.